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About
Kairouan, the first Muslim city founded in the Maghrib, was established in the year six hundred and seventy of the common era by Uqba ibn Nafi al Fihri, may God be pleased with him, and it became the spiritual, military and scholarly hub from which the faith spread westward across North Africa and into Andalusia. Among its most beloved sites is the Maqam Abi Zama al Balawi, the shrine of Abu Zama al Balawi, may God be pleased with him, a companion of the Prophet Muhammad, peace and blessings be upon him and his family, whose tomb has been venerated in Kairouan for more than thirteen centuries and who is affectionately known in local tradition as the barber companion for having preserved three hairs of the Prophet. The site, often called the Mosque of the Barber, is one of the oldest continuously functioning religious buildings in Africa, and its courtyard and tomb chamber have been repeatedly restored under successive dynasties, from the Aghlabids through the Hafsids and the Ottomans, each leaving its distinctive artistic signature. Architecturally the complex combines a carved stone mosque, a tomb chamber topped by a ribbed dome, a madrasa with elegantly tiled cells and a courtyard whose marble columns and carved plaster demonstrate the layered aesthetic of the Maghrib. Inside, the mihrab is lined with Iznik style ceramic, the mimbar is carved from cedar and the tomb itself is draped in green cloth embroidered with Qur'anic calligraphy. Daily prayers gather local residents and pilgrims, Jumu'ah khutbah is delivered in classical Arabic and Ramadan evenings bring tarawih, iftar laid across the courtyard and nightly dhikr sessions. Eid mornings draw families in traditional jebbas and safsaris, and sweet maqroud pastries from Kairouan are shared afterwards. Visitors should dress modestly, leave shoes on the marble threshold, cover the head out of respect and recite the Fatihah for the companion's soul. Landmarks within reach include the Great Mosque of Uqba, the Aghlabid pools, the Mausoleum of the Companion Abu Lubaba and the ancient ribat of Sousse. The resident custodian keeps a handwritten register of visitors that has been maintained by successive generations for more than eighty years, and its yellowed pages bear the names of pilgrims from Morocco, Spain, Turkey and even Indonesia, a precious archive of the Maqam's place within the global topography of Muslim devotion.
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